Monday at the Bar: International Law Class, Columbia University. October 2, 1918. Observations on dress, then and now.

This interesting photograph depicts an "International Law Class" at Columbia on October 2, 1918.

It's an interesting photograph.

First let's note that the caption doesn't tell us that this is actually a law school class, just an International Law Class.  The two might not be the same.  Nonetheless this is interesting for a reason that will be made plain below.

On the anniversary of this photo being taken it was posted on Reddit's 100 Years Ago Subreddit.  Many people noted how well dressed the students were in this photograph, some lamenting that they don't dress like that today.  Indeed, when did students cease dressing in this fashion?  I.e. at what point did students quit dressing in suits?  It was very common at the time.

One commentator, apparently a teacher or professor of some sort, noted this:

Interesting how many of the hair styles are similar to what I see in my classes today. Lots of hard parts and fades going on.

Is that right?  I don't follow such things.

Another person noted what I just did, that being:

Look at all the students in suits, however. I've never seen that ever.

That brought this response:

 did you go to law or business school? it’s still incredibly common there.

Oh bull.

A couple of people followed up on that, but frankly dressing like this isn't common, in so far as I'm aware, at any level of study among students today except, perhaps, at some prep schools where ties and jackets are still required. That would be about it.

But that wasn't always the case.  At one time it was so common that we'd expect a photo of university students to feature coats and ties.  When did that change?  Prior to World War Two?

Indeed, I think that proof that its quite uncommon today is amply demonstrated by the following post from Princeton Career Services:

What to Wear: "Professional" vs. "Business Casual"

With a new job or internship on the horizon (or even as you attend Meetups and networking events) it's important to put some thought into what you wear. Some may already have a closet of work-appropriate garments, ready for day-to-day use. Others may need to start from scratch, or close to it. If you're in need of some professional attire, check out our TigerThreads program. Here’s how to get started with office-ready essentials.

Understanding Professional Standards

From office to office, style expectations vary, although certain industries always demand a professional look. Think finance or law, for example, where suits and ties are a day-in, day-out requirement. In some ways, this makes things simpler. Professional attire almost always means:

• Suits (with tie) for men, paired with a solid-colored dress shirt
• Suits, pants suits or dresses with jacket for women
• Neutral colors and conservative footwear for all
• Clean grooming, ironed clothes and attention paid to the details

Mastering Business Casual

On the other side of the spectrum is business casual. First things first, this is not casual in the way you may expect — even if we sometimes wish it was. In other words, jeans and sneakers do not generally apply. The key is to maintain a professional presence, even if you’re not in a suit or tie. Remember, you represent your organization, so you want to make an effort, no matter what day of the week.

• From day one: Dress more formally, and observe your peers, which can help you decode your office. That said, even if dress is more casual, it may show ambition to dress it up a bit.
• For her: From tailored pants to dresses (not more than an inch or two above the knee), women have options. Aim to keep footwear relatively conservative.
• For him: Dress pants, a collared shirt and a belt are standard. Blazers, tailored sweaters and leather shoes work as well.
• For everyone: Avoid jeans until you’re certain when they are acceptable…which can range from Fridays-only to never. This is not an area in which to be a trailblazer. Trendier clothes may be ok, within reason, but take cues from others.

Over the years, “business casual” has shifted in a more casual direction, which can make things a bit confusing, especially when you’re first starting out. By keeping an eye on your peers, however, you’ll get the swing of it in no time.

Would Princeton students have required this advice in 1918?  1968?  1978?

Apparently they do now.

Even at that, however, what Princeton notes isn't really that true anymore.  Princeton is wise to urge students to "Think finance or law, for example" but they're wrong that "suits and ties are a day-in, day out requirement" everywhere.

They aren't where I am.

Now, they may be elsewhere, but I've noticed that in recent years the standard on this has slipped in Denver.  Denver is the big city around here and at one time, indeed, I'd find that lawyers and businessmen were very well dressed as a rule.  Now, when I go to depositions in Denver, I'm usually the only lawyer wearing a tie.  I still do, but it's not the norm.  It is for court appearances of course (it's the rule) and for other formal legal settings, but as daily office wear?  Well, not so much anymore.

Indeed, I recently had a Denver lawyer who is a friend of mine stop in the office.  I was wearing full legal regalia at the time and the first thing he said to me was "You even wear a tie in the office?".  I don't a lot of days, but I'm one of the few lawyers left that I know who does at least 50% of the time.  Indeed, it probably makes me look like a stone age lawyer to some.

I was dressed that way, on that day, as I did have a proceeding to attend.

But on an average day in our office, of the male lawyers only tone wears coat and tie every day, and he's really an exception to the rule.  I'm the only one who otherwise frequently wears them.  A couple absolutely never do.  I notice that the female lawyers dress better on a daily basis then the men do, and that lawyers who have a lot of business and estate work where they might expect unannounced pop ins generally dress better than lawyers who are litigators, who truth be known spend hours locked in their offices (it isn't daily court work like imagined).

Quite a change, and a change even over a relatively short period of time.

Another comment was this one:

Why it's all white men. Can you imagine that sort of society? I do like the suits, though. Let's bring back suits for students.

That didn't really strike me until the person noted it, but then I look at a lot of old photographs for this blog so that's probably why it didn't stick out to me right away.  But that comment is right.  All male and all white males.  You wouldn't see that today.

But bring back suits for students?  Nah. That's not going to happen. Indeed, with the current evolution of dress, will suits even survive for the next couple of decades?