Showing posts with label Men. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Men. Show all posts

Sunday, October 11, 2026

Sunday, October 11, 1936. End of the Arab General Strike, Fascists attacks in London, War Concerns, Hermaphrodites.

The Arab Higher Committee announced an end to the 175-day-old Arab general strike in Palestine.

British fascists attacked Jewish shops and Jews in London's East End.  10,000 leftist demonstrated against fascism in Victoria Park.

The Rocky Mountain News warned of looming possibilities of war.


And FDR said the Republicans would ruin farmers.

Right then, right now.

It was the 1936 election season, of course, and the News was focusing on that.


It's interesting that FDR was polling very well with religious voters, which I suppose isn't really surprising.  It's also interesting that Wyoming, which is the least religious state in the U.S., was already in the solid GOP camp.

The news took a look at the history of third parties.


And a story sort of foreshadowing a controversial topic of the current era.

The News was huge on Sundays, although it featured very few cartoons, oddly enough.  It had a lot of feature sections.  I've omitted the one on "Sex Appeal In Exploration".

Last edition:

Saturday, October 10, 1936. Things going on in Central Europe.

Saturday, October 10, 2026

On Obsolete Institutions, Immoral behavior, Old Standards. Mehr Mensch Sein. Cornell Rape and Other Matters.

Sanctify yourself and you will sanctify society.
St. Francis of Assisi

Chi Phi (ΧΦ) house at Cornell.

Every once and a while I publish something here which I know, if anyone reads it, will offer offense.

This will offer massive offense.  It can't help but do so.1

It's also one of those posts which involves a lot of synchronicity.

The details.
I felt like bait.
Cornell rape victim.

Caption to lawsuit, entire suit visible here:  Suit.

Recently the news of a gang rape of a young woman at Cornell University has been much in the news.  I actually didn't pay a lot of attention to it at first as, oddly enough, I'd just read an article in the New York Times magazine supplement of a young woman who was gang raped at a university and the details, to the minor extent I was aware of them, were much the same. Turns out that it was actually a different event, and frankly the one I read about first was significantly more horrific in some fashions.  After that, I looked on the net a bit, and as I'll explain below, I read of a young woman who had, almost successfully, but apparently not quite, achieved the removal of her self posted nude images from the net, and then following that, due my Twitter feed, saw a Catholic young woman commenting in horror to the comments by one of a contemporary comedian regarding sexual conduct.

Eh?  Are these all related?

Yes, they are.

Let's start with Cornell.

The way the story is more or less reported is that the young woman. age 20, went to the fraternity room of a male friend she was interested in, after having become heavily intoxicated earlier in the evening. At the fraternity, she drank more and consumed at least ketamine and then was gang raped by members of the Chi Phi (ΧΦ).  In a 50,000 foot sort of way, all that's correct.  But when you did into the details the story is quite a bit different.

Rather, what happened, is the young woman in a sorority had an interest, both romantic and sexual, in a young man in a fraternity.  Now, frankly, in any romantic interest there's always a sexual element, which will explore below, so the two are not necessarily completely separated.  But what picks up from there grossly departs from what standards had been only fairly recently.  She spoke to him on the phone and was invited out for the evening, starting off at a bar. They adjourned to the frat house, and when she got there, he included a friend and proposed a sexual threesom, i.e., that she consent to being screwed by him and by his buddy, and she agreed.  The complaint alleges she was too drunk to say no, but frankly that seems incorrect.  She also agreed to take ketamine, and consumed more alcohol.  This didn't render her unconscious, but it did render her sexually pliable and various frat members came in to screw her and the word got around that you could have sex just by stopping in.  At least at some point in this horrific series of events, one male member of the fraternity stopped in just out of concern, and found the first two men there and the woman under the covers.  Satisfied, I guess, that things were okay, he left. Ultimately, several men penetrated her, including the first two.



The next day the one guy she liked and the girl started exchanging texts and she wanted, at first, to develop a romantic relationship with him still. She confessed awkwardice at what hat happened, but admitted at least some of the actions were consensual.  And as gross as it was, she was an underaged drinker, the first gross act was.  As time went on she convinced herself she'd been raped, and indeed she had been, and reported it, which at the same time was coincident with news of the event getting around campus and the girl feeling her reputation was ruined.2   It was not prosecuted in part as the Cornell police did not report the full details to the prosecutor.  Apparently New York retains a very antiquated view of the law in this area, although it's not historically unique, that if a person starts consenting and passes out (which she didn't) they've consented.   

Again, that view of this topic is antiquated, but it's not unique.  The concept that if a girl starts down the road to sex, even if she didn't get very far down the road, which this girl clearly did, and passes out due to alcohol, has still consented, used to be a cultural norm and that tended to reflect itself in the law.

The cultural view is still there to a significant degree.

Which takes us there to the next horror.

In the second instance, a young woman went away to college.  She was an adoptee raised by loving parents but it's pretty clear that when she got there she used it as an opportunity to "party".  Indeed, she was drinking like crazy.  She had some male friends she trusted, and went to a bar with them. While there, she drank very heavily and passed out. They raped her and used their phones to video themselves raping her. They then posted it on social media, which is how she learned she'd been raped.

This story is frankly more horrific. The young woman's error here was in getting drunk. She thought the men were her friends.  When she was vulnerable, they flat out raped her. But they were so debased they shared the images of the rape on social media.  The event was too much for her, and she dropped out of school.

Which takes us to social media.

While looking into this I ran across a story of another young woman.  Looking at it, she appears to be a fairly nice if highly naive young woman who graduated with a fairly common but somewhat difficult four year degree.  While in school, she participated in activities of a collegic nature, being a cheerleader.

She is also massively endowed, which even her "clean" photos make plain.  She apparently picked up on that being a real attractant and started posting images of herself on social media, showing offer her clothed assets, which then linked to an "Only Fans" account where she could be seen nude.  At some point the danger or stupidity of this must have occurred to someone (she graduated and I wonder if it was employment related) and she mounted a vigorous campaign to wipe out all the nude images.  Apparently she was mostly successful, which is impressive, and which also suggest that she probably had to resort to legal help. In spite of all this, she still posts TikTok streams, clothed, which are clearly designed to show off her boobs and which frequently involve heavy drinking.  She's trying to be an "influencer".

Well, it's sure not a good influence.

And finally to our last item.

 A comedy clip, which appears to have started off as a "reel", showed up on my Twitter feeds as a comment by a horrified Catholic young woman.  In it, the comedian is doing the engagement with the audience routine.

There are piles of such reels around by female comedians right now, and quite a few (but not all) like to engage in sex as a topic.  I'm not sure, but I think it has to do with sort of the Lenny Bruce Effect, which is basically that to say something shocking when its not expected draws attention.  It also expand the boundaries of what's considered shocking in a culture.  Bruce was crude and vulgar and used the topic of sex in his routine.  His personality trod close to his topics, he married a stripper.  He died at age 40 of a drug overdose.

He also opened up the door to acts like Richard Pryor's.  Today vulgarity is common.  

Anyhow, the comedienne called out a couple and asked them if they were married, which they were, and how old she was when they met.  16.  She then asked how many men she had engaged in sex with, something that in an earlier era would have resulted in immediate rebuke. That's become a big female edgy topic recently, with women boasting of their "body counts", as if it's all that hard for any woman who wants to have sex, to have it (more on that in a moment).  She'd only had sex with her husband, which was then lampooned.

That's worthy of praise, not lampooning, and that was the American, and the European, norm up until the Sexual Revolution.  Multiple sex partners were not admired in anyone, and for women that resulted in their being regarded as a "slut", which we'll discuss in more depth below.

Okay, where do we go with all of this?  There is a lot to consider, and a lot of it isn't being considered.

Let's take the low hanging fruit first.

Chi Phi (ΧΦ) badge.

Fraternities, and sororities, need to be abolished.

A student movement at Cornell realized this before this assault.  It wasn't the first assault alleged to have occurred in this frat house, and they tried to ban fraternities, unsuccessfully.

There is really no reason for fraternities any longer. They reflect the nature of education that existed before World War Two, and really well before World War Two.  In the US, at least, they have their start in the late 18th Century.

While there are exceptions, for the most part university dormitories, "the dorms", did not become common in university settings until after World War Two at which point there was a massive expansion in the student population due to the GI Bill.  The first purpose built drom at the University of Wyoming, which is of course a land grant institution, was considerably older than that, however, being Merica Hall, which opened as a women's dorm in 1908.  It was originally called "Women's Hall."  There was early housing for male students at UW before that, but in what is now called "Old Main", which also held all of the classrooms.  It was built in 1886.  This shows, perhaps, some of the awkward nature of the original housing arrangements.  Combined classrooms and living quarters in buildings was a common early solution to student's residential needs.  Hoyt Hall, which was a drom and a education building, was started in 1915.  Knight Hall and the the Student Union were built as a part of a late 1940s Depression era construction project.    Wyoming Hall was completed in 1951.

The first fraternity at UW, Sigma Beta Phi, opened in 1903.  The oldest sorority in 1905.

That might seem to cut against my argument here, but it really does not.  Upper education was mostly for the well to do.  Land grant universities were not.  There were some early school housing buildings in various locations, but they tended to be in buildings that were otherwise used for classes.  Early dormitories at coeducational institutions tended to be built for women first.  There were no such things as "coed" dorms.

Casper College, in Casper Wyoming, opened as Casper Junior College on September 17, 1945, a date we failed to note on this site.  It was originally in the upper floor of hte high school, but moved onto its own campus in 1955.  It did not have a dormitory until 1965.

So, then, what did a student do if there wasn't a dormitory, or wasn't room in one?

A person might think this is an easy question to answer, "rent an apartment", but it's not as easy as it sounds.  As we've already discussed, lodging was more complicated for single people before refrigerators and modern stoves came into existence.  Sure, you could rent an apartment, but it wasn't until the mid 20th Century that it was really relatively easy to live on your own in one.  Students tend not to have a lot of money, and therefore its not like eating out every day was an option for a lot of them.  "Starving student" had a meaning then that it doesn't now.

An option therefore was living in a boarding or "rooming" house, which a lot of single people did in general. We've already discussed that.  Privately owned, they provided room and board but often under fairly strict supervision.  A good example of this is given in the movie Brooklyn, which depicts a boarding house in the 1950s for young single women.

Student apartments did exist in some areas where the student population was fairly high.  For large private schools, like Harvard, these tended to be multiple room, say with bedrooms for about four students, and a small room for a servant.  That person took care of the cooking and cleaning for the students.  Clearly this is long gone.

Cornell, we'll note, is a private university.



And then there were fraternities and ultimately sororities.

Housing and food was the main advantage of fraternities.  A person needed a place to live, and like student apartments, fraternities had and still have a person who cooks and cleans.  Indeed, I recall some students claiming they were joining fraternities just as the food was better than at the dorms.

Early on, with upper education being very exclusive, fraternities tended to function as literary societies.  In the 19th Century, however, they were part of the large Protestant fraternal organization movement, and they began to incorporate secret rituals, some of them which were outright bizarre.  I don't know about Chi Phi, but it does have an initiation ritual, which interestingly enough emphasizes integrity and honesty.  This is interesting in that at the same time clubs that focused on dinner with dinging halls also started to exist, giving another food option to students, but also functioning sort of like fraternal organizations do today.  Having said that, dining clubs never became enormously common in the US.

The GI Bill flooded universities after World War Two and they responded by creating dorms.  Fraternities and Sororities also expanded, but by the 1960s their real purpose had passed. There was no longer a real need to join one as there was no real living advantage to doing so. Given that, their main purpose became social.

Social clubs with significant numbers of people who range from 18 to 22  years of age are a bad idea in general, unless they have massive supervision.  A lot of returning World War Two veterans were, of course, over that age, and the real impact of things didn't begin to settle in until the 1950s and 1960s.

In the 50s and 60s the US was hit with the combined impact of a massive demographic influx, the Baby Boomers, a huge boost in the wealth of the country, and an assault on morals and image of women in the form of the views espoused by Playboy magazine.  The impact was society wide but it had a particular impact on college and university campuses.  Nowhere was that more felt than in fraternities.

The classic depiction of this is, of course, National Lampoon's Animal House. That's an exaggeration, like most comedy, but National Lampoon, an expression of Harvard Lampoon, was depicting what it knew, including really vulgar and immoral treatment of women.  A central depiction in the plot of the film is a fraternity member wheeling a  drunk underaged girl home in a shopping cart, after she passes out while they're about to have sex, from a "toga party" . Raping her was a bridge too far for the Lampoon, but it's depicted in such a fashion that it's implied that the chivalrous character, if you will, could have legitimately done that if he wanted to.

When I was at UW in the early 1980s, fraternities actually had "toga parties", although my guess is that they were inspired in that by the film.  One fraternity that was familiar with, as a friend was in it, annually had the "Baby Ball" in which the members and invited sorority girls dressed in sheets, like babies, and slid down the stairs, which were supposed to be fallopian tubes.  They also drank really heavily at this event.

By the time I was in law school, which would be the late 80s, fraternities were on the decline.  That probably reflected a generational change, and a technological one.  You could just as easily live on your own, and if you didn't want to, you could get a really nice dorm room.  They've been declining ever since.

But, as we can see, they are still around.

They ought to be extinguished, as the Cornell student movement tried to do.

Let's start off with a statement that states the obvious, but apparently it isn't.

College students in the 18th Century are not the same as college students in the 21st.

This isn't to suggest that they were perfectly behaved.  The 19th Century US was awash in alcohol all the time and there were some huge alcohol fueled student riots in the 19th Century, including one at West Point (the Eggnog Riot).  And all sorts of weird harassment of underclassmen was common.  In some ways, the abuse of younger students which remains common in some fraternities, occured on a wide scale.  That wide scale abuse of younger students has pretty much stopped in the general student body (not in all fraternities, however), but that came with a broader student body.

What was not as common was the outright abuse of women in this fashion, save for one odd but instructive instance.  Prior to 1865, some university students had enslaved women as servants, and they were subject to sexual abuse, not surprisingly.3 

And up until the 1970s, seemingly, society appreciated that young men without supervision and young women without the same would get into all sorts of trouble.    Kipling noted that "single men in barracks don't grow into plaster saints", a line he wrote about the peacetime British Army, but which applies equally to any group of warehoused young men.  Along the lines of our topic, sexual abuse of female service members has become widespread and nearly incapable of being eradicated.  Given the atmosphere of fraternities, which has been libertine at least in the popular imagination since the 70s, rapes are going to be a feature of them.

Whatever function fraternities, and sororities, served, is pretty much over.  Any benefit they provided, can be provided in other ways.  There are going to be campus rapes no matter what, but keeping fraternities around is encouraging them.4

Which takes us to the next thing.

Failing young men and women.  The battlefield casualties of the sexual revolution.



When this topic broke the week before last, it ended up on the weekend news programs, not too surprisingly.  One of the people who commented on it was Republican 2028 Presidential hopeful, Chris Christie, in his role as a This Week commentator.  Christe noted, albeit only briefly, that young men needed to be better educated that such conduct as was exhibited here is appalling.

That's a given, but how did we even get here, and what do we need to do?

And, frankly, young women need to be better educated in these areas.

And so do adults.

One thing that society in general needs to be better educated on is that university isn't for partying.  As noted above, this sort of view has been around forever, I think you can even find Medieval examples, but starting in the 70s it became pretty bad in some quarters.    In my view, this was part of the post war largess of the Baby Boom era.

Students going to university in the 60s and 70s that if they got through university they were getting a white collar job. That frankly, in many disciplines, built in a  real slack attitude.  Set from from home with parents that held real values but who had been damaged by the horror of the Second World War and the Great Depression, college was a chance to live it up, often on somebody else's money.  Much of this has passed as the economy has changed from what it formerly was to one in which its much more difficult to get by in, but some of that attitude still exists, good examples of which, or perhaps more accurately bad ones, above.  All of the examples except for the last one feature examples of this sort of behavior, and the "influences" example may actually be the worst.

This needs to end.  

How to end it is another matter, although as noted the economy is ending some of it.  Something that impacted it a bit when I was in university was raising the drinking age from 19 to 21, but that's already been done.  In the Cornell example the problem of admitting teenagers to bars legally is highlighted That should end.  If it were me, I'd just make counties that feature educational institutions dry.  That's a severe approach, of course, but I'd take it.  Studies show, fwiw, that almost all rapes of this type and of the service member type are accompanied by overconsumption of alcohol.

Beyond that, however, putting the bullet in the Sexual Revolution needs to happen, and frankly it's starting to. This helps explain the Trad Movement, in part, in the Catholic and Lutheran laity.  When I go to Mass on Sunday and find a young married woman, often not much over 20 years old, in a matilla with her husband and a baby, I'm looking at the foot soldiers of the counter revolution.  Same thing when I go to work and see the young men and women of Luther Classical College walking to school.

This We'll Defend.5 

This emphasizes that the reaction ot the the Sexual Revolution has to be all inclusive and organic.  You can't have a "Me Too" movement that doesn't recognize that. Adopting and teaching a standard, has to adopt it and that's adopting the entire smash.  As Yeoman's laws of human behavior note:


It's interesting how often people try to evade this principal. All people fail in it, as we're fallen and we don't grasp the correctness of various things, but there are those who make a dedicated effort to avoid it.  In a minor way I'm reminded of a couple I know that lived without the benefit of marriage for years, even having a child, who have gone hardcore into the MAGA world, and who are sending their child to Hillsdale school.  They can't quite make it sync as while their instincts are good, they really have to work around to the origin of things to make what they're doing, make sense.

Indeed, while this goes off topic, this particularly American trait is one of hte fundamental flaws of MAGA.  Many of the MAGA faithful, or former faithful, are in it as they have a sense that American society has gone off the rails.  But what they're doing is leaning out of the wreckage of the train car they are in looking back at other toppled cars not realizing that theirs tipped over too.  I.e., they're holding the Car Transgender and Car Homosexual in contempt while wanting to get back to the party in the Car Cheating On Spouse or the Car Divorce which tipped the train over in the first place.



Drilling down on this, what this means is that American society, if it doesn't want college age boys raping college girls, needs to dump the pornographic lifestyle its living in.  Put a bit more bluntly, you can't have a naked Sydney Sweeney advertising a sports website and not expect rape to result.

Also drilling down, the old standard here, which was never perfectly applied, needs to be reapplied.  Young men living in groups didn't generally rape young women as it had been emphasized that it was indescribably wrong.  Moreover, they were taught, and again things happened, that sex was for marriage, not just their own selfish entertainment.6   They were taught was decency was.  Decent people don't post "free pussy in alum pu".

A lot of work needs to be done in this area, but it can start right now by holding those men in this in contempt.  Matthew Ingalls, Johnathan Newell, Winston Lee, Gillio Lopes, Diego Sarabia, Scott Norris, Scott Kretzschmar. Yes, they're innocent until proven guilty, but unless proven to be disconnected with these events, and to have acted to prevent them.  Ingalls and Newell not only deserve contempt, they deserve to be branded as perverts, which is what they are.7 

And assuming, which we are taught not to do, that this meets the New York definition of rape at some point, they shoudl be convicted and sentenced.

But what about Jane Doe?  Indeed, what about all the Jane Does mentioned in this thread?

One of the really disturbing aspects of this is that we now have a society where a 20 year old girl at a prestigious university not only agrees to sex on a sort of first date, she agreed to group sex.  That's perverse. Granted, there are people who are perverse, but now we have been taught not to say such things.

A girl who would have engaged in this conduct when I was young would flat out have been branded a "slut".  That's not to be done now, and is termed "slut shaming", and perhaps the collapse in moral standards make the shaming obsolete.  And it's worth noting that Jane Doe's conviction that everything was morally tainted here grew as the news of what she'd done was spread around.  She was specifically taking heat from two sorority sisters over her role in the whole matter.  That doesn't mean she wasn't raped. So much was going on in terms of drugs and alcohol in this story that if she wasn't impaired at the onset, at some point she most likely was, and she took the position right from the onset that most of it wasn't consensual.  But what we have here is a really gross sex act with two young men she did consent to becoming a sort of orgy in a way, which she didn't consent to.  This isn't the same at all as the Red Army showing up to a village in eastern Germany in 1945.

We need to avoid making this worse that it already is, but frankly we need to get back to a point at which that sort of conduct is shameful.  Which brings me to the last two young women mentioned in this post.  The influencer and couple mocked by the comedienne.

Regarding the influencer, somebody in her orbit, and may she herself, woke up to the fact that posting naked photographs of yourself was shameful, and they were yanked after quite an effort.  Good for whomever woke up that fact.

But bad that her "influencing" is depicing the same sort of conduct that got the second young woman in this story in trouble.  Her failure, if we are to deem it that, was not being sexually immoral, but in allowing herself to get into a drunken stupor in the presence of young men.  

Which leads me to a comment that was made on the Facebook feed for the author of the article mentioned above.  A commenter noted as the asnwer to the article entitled;  Caitlin Flanagan: What Was Jane Doe Looking For?:
So basically… it’s dangerous to be around men? 
I understand the argument about risk, judgment, alcohol, and putting yourself in vulnerable situations. Those are conversations worth having. 
But there’s something deeply unsettling about telling young women: You know what men are like. You know these places are dangerous. Why did you go? 
Women go to fraternity parties because they want to socialize. They want to flirt. They want to meet men. They may even want to have consensual sex. 
None of those things should require accepting sexual assault as a foreseeable consequence of being around men. 
At some point, “women need to make better choices” becomes an extraordinarily damning statement about men. 
So the feminist position is “not all men,” but the anti-feminist position is apparently, “Ladies, you knew there would be men there”?

Well, she's correct in everything she said, the commenter, but she's wrong.   Large groups of young men have fallen off the rails in this way since we have been a species. So, yes, "it's dangerous to be around men".

It is.

Not all men all the time, but this gets back to standards of the past.  It's not that dangerous to be around a bunch of young men. . . who are near older men. . .and better yet if some of them are relatives.  I've seen young men begin to act improperly towards young women where older men were present and intervened, sometimes forcibly.8    In other words, being at the Sheepherders' Fair is one thing, being at Moonies, apparently, quite another.

And, influencer, having a wardrobe made entirely of overly tight halter tops is dangerous. That does, in the real world, one thing.  It advertises your boobs, and advertises that your boobs are available for the taking, along with things located elsewhere on your female body.

We'll loop back around here to the Flanagan article, which is drawing flak.  Flanagan condemns franternitis solidly in the article.  She notes that fraternities were dangerous when she was in college, and that a boyfriend she was breaking up with warned her never to go upstairs in one, which she never did. 

Then she asked this question:

That’s the saddest thing about these old rituals. What attracts women to those parties—late at night, like Jane Doe—to walk alone to a fraternity house and take her chances? 

She answers:
What she’s really looking for is a man. And she has no idea how to find a good one.
Footnotes:


1.  On offering offense, Caitlin Flanagan, a journalist, has already written two articles on this and the second one, which will be noted above, has really drawn criticism.

2. We've left out a lot of details in our first summation of this, but her concern for her reputation isn't surprising.  She consented to getting screwed by one man while performing oral sex on another, and then was screwed by multiple other men.  One of the two original men actually texted her not to worry as things like this were becoming more a societal norm, which is complete bullshit.

3.  Having said that, the practice of "wenching" was common amongst certain men, which involved picking up young women in bars of a certain class, that being the desperate underclass.  This pretty clearly crosses over towards the topic of prostitution pretty quickly.  Having said that, this definitely occurred.

4.  On another note, not one of the very few men I knew who were in fraternities at the University of Wyoming graduated with a degree.  This caused me to be surprised when I learned that a long time partner of mine had been a member of the same fraternity that two individuals I knew, who did not graduate, hate been.

I should note that one of those two fellows, while he did not graduate, didn't live in the frat house the entire four years either, and later went on to become a millionaire.

5.  Motto of the U.S. Army, first adopted in 1778.

6.  The topic of birth control has not come up here.

7.  Ingalls actually has claimed that Jane Does sodomized him, and he's a sexual assault survivor.  Oh please.  At any rate, their joint actions on the girl were perverted, but frankly, her acceptance of being engaged in sex with both at the same time is also perverted.

Kretzschmar maintains that he was not part of the rape at all, and what he did was to go into the room and check on things. This seems to be more or less correct.  His sin, here, is one of omission.  He knew that something was going on and did nothing.

8. Contrary to what people might expect, middle aged men are often way stronger and more adopt in a fight than young men are.

On Obsolete Institutions, Immoral behavior, Old Standards. Mehr Mensch Sein. More additional labels.

On Obsolete Institutions, Immoral behavior, Old Standards. Mehr Mensch Sein. Additional links.

On Obsolete Institutions, Immoral behavior, Old Standards. Mehr Mensch Sein. Yeoman's Laws of Behavior Links.

Wednesday, October 7, 2026

Suit Weights (and modesty), a history.

Really interesting thread on men's suit weights, sans photographs, from "Derek Guy", who frequently comments under that pseudonym on fashion.

derek guy @dieworkwear

Oct 6

Men's dress shirts used to be considered underwear, not to be seen except for the collar and cuffs. In "respectable" company, a man wore a waistcoat over his dress shirt, and then a tailored jacket over that. The jacket also had layers: haircloth, canvas, felt, and lining.

It's important to note that these were very heavy fabrics. Harrison's of Edinburgh, my favorite fabric merchant, once made custom fabrics for Andrew Carnegie. In their archives, you can find materials they made for Carnegie's summer wardrobe. The weight? 510 grams per sq. meter

To give you context, 510 gram wool today is typically reserved for a topcoat or heavy winter suit (like the brown coat you see below). This is what men wore in the *summer* back in the day. Average ready-to-wear suit today is maybe 255 gram cloth — half the weight.

Here's a gray Donegal tweed suit designed for winter. I think the weight is around 450 grams. This is lighter than what Carnegie would have worn in the summer. He would have also been shocked by the lack of a waistcoat. It would be like walking around with your pant fly open.

This practice changed over 100 years from mid-18th to mid-19th century. This transformation happened as buildings adopted central heating and society became less uptight/ more liberal. Still, when you watch old films, such as The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit or The Apartment you still see men mostly keep their jackets on while indoors. Again, remember these are not like your trucker or field jackets — they have multiple layers inside them for structure (haircloth, canvas, felt) and were made from heavier materials than what's typically worn today

This is why I thought it was interesting to see Dale Partridge harp about modesty while wearing a t-shirt. This would have been unthinkable to a man in the early 20th century.

A friend of mine who teaches theology shared with me a post about CS Lewis's Mere Christianity, which discusses foundational Christian logic across denominations. It reminded me of Dale's tweet below, and I wanted to share some thoughts here regarding modesty and respectability, x.com/dalepartridge/…

A friend of mine who teaches theology shared with me a post about CS Lewis's Mere Christianity, which discusses foundational Christian logic across denominations. It reminded me of Dale's tweet below, and I wanted to share some thoughts here regarding modesty and respectability, which often become hot topics on Twitter. 

Let's first visit the excerpts. Adapted from a series of BBC radio talks he delivered during the last few years of the Second World War, CS Lewis's Mere Christianity touches on some big topics — the meaning of the universe, Christians beliefs, and what is considered proper Christian behavior. Regarding behavior, there's a chapter on sexual morality that begins with one of the least popular Christian virtues: modesty. Here's what CS Lewis had to say:

Lewis points out something interesting here: modesty has to be understood within the matter of context. A woman in the Pacific Islands, he notes, can be modest while wearing barely any clothes, while a Victorian woman will have different standards for the same idea. 

In my original reply to Dale, I noted that he was wearing a thin jersey t-shirt, which revealed the outline of his nipple (a well-known erogenous zone, even for men). The t-shirt, of course, was once considered underwear. In the 19th century, a proper gentleman would have worn a coat and waistcoat — the shirt was hardly ever seen except for the collar and cuffs. In the 20th century, the waistcoat was eventually dropped, but the button-up shirt remained. It wasn't until about the 1940s and 50s that it became increasingly common to see men wearing t-shirts in public. The style ascended partly because it was sexually suggestive (think of Marlon Brando in The Wild One). 

Of course, no one thinks t-shirts are underwear anymore, and it's no longer considered improper to wear one in public. The same is true of leggings. Most people would be shocked if a woman appeared in public in her actual underwear (by today's definition). Unless they were being performative, no one would act that way when they see a woman dressed like that on the right. Thus, modesty has to be contextual. 

Let's move on with the rest of the passage. 

Lewis recognizes that modesty raises thorny issues, but he sweeps them aside to focus on the more important spirit. I want to bring your attention to the last sentence: "A real desire to believe all the good you can of others and to make others as comfortable as you can will solve most of the problems." 

This reminds me of Cardinal John Henry Newman's book Definition of a Gentleman (which, like CS Lewis's Mere Christianity, is adapted from a series of lectures). I often cite Newman's book because it's so instructive. The term gentleman is so overwrought and frequently abused, but to the degree it means anything at all, I think Newman captures it here:

On Twitter, there are often debates about how to dress respectably (and the importance of doing so). These discussions usually get uncomfortable because they touch on class and race. Just this morning, I saw someone say they are glad young black men are "wearing quarter zips" and putting away "Jordans," which they say are associated with "ratchet behavior." 

On matters of respectable dress, it's helpful to separate two distinct acts. The first is how you decide to dress; the second is how you judge others by their dress. It's true that the world judges us based on appearance. And if you wish to show respect in certain contexts — such as attending a wedding or funeral — it's worth considering what your attire is communicating. This is why I think people should shop for a suit well in advance of when they need one. You don't want to be the guy wearing a weird outfit during those important occasions, as they can send the wrong message (e.g., "I don't care about you"). 

But then there's the second decision: how you judge others based on their dress. If being gentlemanly means anything at all, it should mean what Newman outlines above. Or what Lewis wrote in Mere Christianity: "A real desire to believe all the good you can of others and to make others as comfortable as you can will solve most of the problems." There are two acts here: how you decide to dress (e.g., making others feel comfortable) and how you treat others (e.g., "desire to believe all the good you can of others"). 

My friend and fellow menswear writer Bruce Boyer is fond of saying that clothes are more important than most people think, but less important than fashion people think. I'm of the same mind. I think it's perfectly fine to use the language of clothing. But on issues such as respectability and morality, I think you should judge people by their deeper, more important actions. That doesn't mean how they dress, but rather how they treat others on a more meaningful level. 

Anyway, I will probably reference CS Lewis's book in the future. Thanks to M for the reference.

To be clear, I don't care what people wear and I don't believe in dress respectability. We're also on a global platform, so ppl here live in different countries. But for much of the 20th cent., it was not unusual for a man to wear a jacket indoors, whether tailored or casualwear

I should have added, since I know people will jump to "global warming." While I acknowledge that global warming exists, the average temp has increased about 3 Fahrenheit degrees from early 20th cent to now. While this has meaningful impact on glaciers, it makes little difference on whether someone can wear a jacket (excluding, of course, the days with extreme swings). 

People simply have different standards for how comfortable they expect to be at all times. This, along with the adopting of central heating, is the bigger reason why men today mostly walk around in t-shirts.

I should note that I don't walk around in t-shirts.  I did when I was young but haven't for a long time.

I should also note that I failed to wear a tie for the first time in a long time at a deposition.  I just forgot the tie.  I almost felt naked really.

I'm curious on what others think of Guy's thesis here.

Thursday, July 16, 2026

CliffsNotes of the Zeitgeist 145th Edition. The Department of Manly White Men.

 An AP Headline:

Hegseth announces new policy to test troops for low testosterone

Umm. . . .why?


There's something more than a little creepy about this.

Presumably female troops won't have to be tested for testosterone.

And then there's this:

Hegseth intervenes on promotion list (again), blocks female and Black officers

A Pentagon spokesperson said, “Military promotions are given to those who have earned them,” but the defense secretary hasn’t earned the benefit of the doubt.

The Secretary's campaign against female officers I'd guess to be part of a back door move toward limiting the role of women in the military, but what's up with the seeming bias against black officers?  Maybe it's just a statistical glitch, but then we have the taking down and relocation of a portrait of black Air Force Gen. Daniel “Chappie” James Jr. a genuine hero. The excuse was that it was being relocated due to renovations or something.  Chappie actually stared down Muammar Qaddafi during the latter's 1969 coup and nearly drew his M1911 on him in a true Western style standoff.

Maybe it's all a coincidence but it's an odd one.

For that matter, the entire Trump Administration is the whitest administration imaginable, which we could chalk up to coincidence too but for all the recent rumblings about who is and isn't a "real" American.  Black have of course been in the country since before it was a country, indeed since 1619.  At that time the Trumps were just doing whatever it is they did in Germany.  Nonetheless, I can't think of any prominent black members of the current illegitimate administration.

Even the Joint Chiefs, who represent members of the Armed Forces, which have 30 to 33% minorities in the ranks, are lily white, and of course all male.  African Americans, who are 13.5% of the population and 20% of the military, don't show up there.

Seems a bit odd.

Last edition:

CliffsNotes of the Zeitgeist 144th Edition. Just in case you've begun to think that being governed by an 80 year old demented dictator is somehow normal, here's. . .

Sunday, July 5, 2026

Friday, July 5, 1946. Introduction of the bikini.

French engineer and fashion designer Louis Réard revealed the first modern bikini, modeled by Micheline Bernardini, at a the Piscine Molitor in Paris. 

Louis Réard had been unable to find a fashion model to wear the two piece barely there swimwear, which he'd renamed for the location of the American atomic tests earlier that week, so he hired Bernardini, who was an 18 year old nude dancer.  She later moved to Australia, but reprised the photo shoot at age 58.

The scandalous nature of the swimsuit is somewhat misunderstood. Two piece women's swimsuits had been on the market since the 1930s.  The popular thesis that the scandal had something to do with merely being two piece is in error, as is the myth that the upper garment, not the lower, created the scandal.  It was actually the latter, as the waste line of the bikini was dropped down so that the naval was exposed, which was not the case with earlier two piece suits.  Réard received thousands of supporting letters, mostly from men.

Regarding the pool, the title character of Yann Martel's novel Life of Pi is named after the Piscine Molitor.

While we have often died the decline into sexual immorality in the west to the December 1953 introduction of Playboy, this does demonstrate that the antecedents of that had been going on for some time, and were accelerating post World War Two.  Even the very first bikini, worn on this day, effectively left nothing for the imagination.  Current ones are effectively being nude in public without getting arrested.

July 5 is National Bikini Day.

Last edition:

Thursday, July 4, 1946. Philippine Independence.

Friday, June 5, 2026

Cowardly Men

She's a young beautiful woman, never smiles. I never see a smile on her face. I see her standing there with hatred in her eyes, like she has hatred because we have borders, because we have a strong military, because we cut our taxes...

Donald Trump in a recent press conference.

Donald Trump is a creepy old man.

A few years ago there was a lot of ink spilled and electrons expended on whether or not there was a "crisis of masculinity" in American culture.  There's still a fair amount of discussion of it, as evidenced by this New York Times op ed from this year:

A much-needed, nuanced conversation about masculinity and feminism today.

I've thought about posting in it from time to time, but never had as its a difficult topic to really address, even though, as it involves a shift in social standards, it fits right into this site's purpose.

Seeing Donald Trump insult of a female reporter the other day however, makes it impossible not to address.

Trump is a creepy old man who came of age in the 70s and had early sexual morals like that of an alley cat.  He seems to lack any morals today.  The comment he made was not only demeaning, it demonstrates an absolute contempt of women.  The reporter is supposed to be a pretty adornment, in his view.

How many women have been confronted by the lech stating "why don't you smile more".  Indeed, if you are of a certain age, "why don't you smile more?" or "why don't you wear prettier dresses" or the like is pretty much raising the flag of an intended sexual assault of the pressure type.  Given Trump's dementia, it's not impossible to wonder if that was a line other women in other context have heard before.

It should have been met with a male reaction.

When I was young, even though I grew up in the 1960s and 70s, there was a set of expectations that boys learned and men followed.  I think to some extent they've fallen aside as in the 1970s men lost track of what was expected of them due to the wave of First Generation Feminism.  That era has passed, but knowing what to do and how to behave seems to have gone out to sea.

There exists in such a case a certain institution or law; let us say, for the sake of simplicity, a fence or gate erected across a road. The more modern type of reformer goes gaily up to it and says, “I don’t see the use of this; let us clear it away.” To which the more intelligent type of reformer will do well to answer: “If you don’t see the use of it, I certainly won’t let you clear it away. Go away and think. Then, when you can come back and tell me that you do see the use of it, I may allow you to destroy it."

Chesterton, The Thing. 

The old standards weren't quaint, they existed for a reason.  Two of the reasons are that men are more powerful than women and if the law of the jungle applies, lots of men will abuse women, and by abuse, you know what we mean.  The vulnerable girls at Epstein Island, where Trump traveled with the other rich and often unprincipled, provide an example of that.  Another reason is that the rules restrained men and oriented them towards decent behavior.  Finally, and quite frankly, the rules in fact reflected centuries old views of the relationship between men and women, much of which underwent assault in the 1970s, but frankly which reflect women, and men, in their more natural roles.

Now, let's be clear.  There were men who always violated these rules, some very openly, but they weren't admire for that.  And the reaction to violation could go far beyond mere internal contempt.

Amongst the rules were some that seem pretty minor.  You always opened the door for women, including women you didn't know.  You walked around a car to let a woman out of the car and opened the door for her, and when entering a car you opened the door for her.  Both of those actually reflect an era when doors were heavier, including car doors.

A man got up from his seat when women approached to address them, something depicted in the final seat of True Grit when Frank James does not get up when she approaches, and when she leaves she states "Keep your seat, trash".  

That is how that was viewed.

More seriously, however, men, including teenage boys, were taught not to insult a woman's virtue in any fashion.  The instruction was so serious that if you were in a relationship with a woman so insulted you were expected to immediately intervene, but it went beyond that.  If you were in a setting where that was done you were also expected to intervene, particularly if you knew the girl or the knew somebody who was in a relationship with the girl.  It was universally understood that a verbal rebuke of a person talking smack or insulting a girl, or saying the kind of thing Trump was saying, didn't cause them to knock it off, a fistfight was the probable result.  Generally, the exchange went something like:

"Hey, knock it off and leave her alone."

The reply normally was:

"Hey dude, I didn't mean anything by it".

If,, however, the insulting person did not back off, a fight often ensued.  

This is, of course, amongst younger men.  If an older man, like Trump, said something like that, a verbal rebuke and walking out was the norma.

That went something like:

"You sir, are being insulting and owe her an apology".

With an old baffoon like Trump, that was normally met with:

"Um, I all I meant. . . 

At which point the other men started leaving.

This is all 20th Century stuff, I'd note, and 20th Century middle class stuff.  Even when I was young in rougher society fights could arise in this fashion which went right to knives.  In European and European American middle class and upper class society of the 18th and 19th Century failing to yield often outright resulted in a duel.  

Now, these guys just stand there like lumps, saying nothing.

One of the things about our current society is that it's really become White Trash.  The gutter morals of men who view women as objects and who can't speak with any proficiency are dictating the culture of the country, and combined with this is the corruption that wealth has always brought about.  

Again, Trump provides us a fine example of that.  He's an immoral man who is steeped in immorality. He's hung around with the rich men who abuse teenage women to the point where questions about his behavior are legitimate questions.  He's made creepy comments about his own daughter when she was young. The wheels are coming off of his ability to restrain himself.  He gets closer and closer to the point at which he's going to outright proposition a woman on national television and not one male reporter has the courage to do anything about it.

But we're going to have to start doing something about this behavior.

Part of the claim of the MAGA movement and entities like the Wyoming Freedom Caucus is that they were restoring America. Instead, they're just White Trashing it up.  Chuck Gray have us just such an example the other day when he acted like a 12 year old brat the Cowboy State Daily video program.

One of the things about the old rules is that even one person enforcing them was normally effective.  Even within the last few years I've seen that when an official got mad about something and started swearing and another official rebuked him with "there are ladies here".  I hadn't heard that in years, but it resulted in an immediate apology.

People around Trump need to start calling him on his behavior.  People around Trump who pretend its not important need to be called on that.  But beyond that, people in everyday conversation need to do the same.  The long road back won't become from the top of the generation in charge.  It'll have to come from the bottom.