There have recently been an entire series of posts on blogs about
American standards of appearance, and what it means. I'm proud to say
that I've yapped about it myself, and did so early, so I was a pioneer
in complaining, on blogs, about this.
Well, maybe that isn't really something I should complain about, but I have done it.
Anyhow, most recently this comes up in the context of Catholic bloggers
noting how poorly some people appear at Mass. Ms. Scalia has noted it
on her blog The Anchoress. Deacon Kandra got things rolling recently
when he noted the same on The Deacon's Bench. These blog entries all noted that a lot of Catholics show up looking
pretty darned bad, or even dressed in fairly suggestive clothing. I've
noted that myself, although in all honesty I think that this phenomenon
was worse a few years ago, and this is less the case now. I've also
noted here and there that the standards of dress at Mass vary
considerably by region, and for some good reasons.
Anyhow, I don't really think, as I've posed here before, that the
decline in American sartorial standards is unique to Catholics at Mass.
Rather, I feel that what people are noting is a general society wide
decline is standards of dress that has become so ingrained in the
American culture that we're now the sloppiest people on earth, and we
don't know it. Oddly, as I've also noted before, we still judge others
by how they dress, which is interesting and says something, I guess,
about the nature of symbols and appearance.
Is this phenomenon real? If yes, why did the decline happen. And does it matter?
Well, it is real. Take a look at the last century and a half in terms of
dress, and it becomes pretty evident. Let's start with the 1860 to 1920
time frame.
If we do that, what we would find is that most people owned far fewer
clothes than they do now. That's an irony of this situation that often
fails to be appreciated. Lots of clothing is a fairly recent phenomenon
for a lot of reasons. For one, cheap easy clothing didn't really come
about until the modern machine age, when clothing could be easily mass-produced. For another, there was simply less wealth in the society
until post WWII, so people couldn't buy a lot of changes in clothing.
For yet another, clothing was washed by hand until the washing machine,
and washing clothing by hand is really hard work. People didn't change
their clothing nearly as much as we do today.
For that matter, wool clothing was dominant up until the washing
machine. We think of blue jeans as cowboy wear today, but it wasn't
until well into the 20th Century. Wool trousers are what cowhands wore
up until the washing machine became common.
Perhaps the connection with standards of dress isn't plain here, but
there is a connection. Most people had a good set of clothes for social
functions. They also had fewer clothes. Men who worked indoors
basically wore their good clothes all the time. Those who had hard
manual labor tended to have a set of good clothing for certain
functions, such as church, and they didn't want to appear poor or
disrespectful so they wore such clothing whenever the function suited
it. For this reason, we're often surprised to see how well people are
dressed just to be in town, in the 19th Century.
Additionally, clothing wasn't really used to send the same sort of
personalized individual message that it is today. Working men didn't
need a set of clothing to send the message that they were working men.
They had a set of clothing that suited work as they were working me.
Those who worked indoors likely did wish to send the message that they
were not manual laborers, and wearing suits sent that message. That was
about all the more message their was. Exceptions existed, in the
United States, principally only for those who occupied specialized
occupations, such as military men and the Protestant clergy (Catholic
male clergy in the 19th Century largely dressed in suits).
Of course, as part of this, the standard was simply higher. Caps, which
so predominate now, were regarded as vulgar and vaguely obscene up
until the automobile became common. Why this is the case isn't really
clear, but caps were something that were pretty much only worn by manual
laborers whose jobs precluded them from wearing real hats. That's
probably the reason.
With modifications over time, this remained the general situation for
pretty much the entire Western World up until the 1950s. Some things did
change, but for real reasons. Caps came in as acceptable men's ware in
the 1910 to 1920 time frame, as they proved handy in connection with
automobiles, and that converted them, at first, from being sort of a
dirty working man's headgear into a sporty item.
Real change, however, came in the 1960s. The "Cultural Revolution" not
only brought about a challenge to every standard going, including
clothing standards, or so it seemed. In retrospect, it coincided with a
change in material wealth and production in the US which was
unprecedented.For the first time in our history, a generation was born
with the expectation of higher education and the means largely existed
to obtain it. That generation was also born into an era when material
goods were much easier to obtain than previously. As a result of that,
clothing that had been the domain of working men, t-shirts and Levis,
became everyday wear for middle class children trying to affect the look
of working men. We've never gone back.
But does it really matter?
Well, yes and know. It can't rationally be argued that people should
return to the clothing standards of an earlier era. But people should
be aware that clothing sends a message. Wearing clothing that looks
disheveled or sloppy in some settings sends the message that we so value
ourselves that we do not value anything else. We just can't be
bothered. The spread of clothing with fake messages, like fake schools
or fake entities (very common amongst the young) sends the message that
we have a fake life. Rude and suggest messages demean ourselves and
cause us to lose respect, no matter what our intent is.
Stated another way, G. K. Chesterton once stated that: The act of defending any of the cardinal virtues has today all the exhilaration of a vice. Today,
if a person really wants to dress like a radical, they'd have to dump
the t-shirts with rude suggestions blazoned on them and dress a little
decently. That doesn't mean wearing suit and tie, except where
appropriate, but it also means dumping the "Hurley" cap on sideways and
the t-shirt with skulls on it. This is particularly true, I'd note, for
the middle-aged, on whom these things look silly.
Still, at the end of the day, I find that when I go to Mass, which
really matters to me, I am not dressing up a great deal. I'm not
dressed like a slob either, but I'm not in a tie. I'm probably wearing
Levis. Most other people I see are similarly dressed. Part of the
regional culture, I suppose. I'm better dressed at work. I'm not sure
what that says about me.